Makeup setting mousse

ABSTRACT

A method of treating keratinous substrates, includes applying a makeup setting composition to a keratinous substrate having makeup formed thereon. The makeup setting composition includes a gas phase dispersed in a condensed phase. The condensed phase includes a water-soluble or water-dispersible film former. Kits and mousse-forming compositions are also provided.

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present disclosure relates to compositions for treating, caring for,and/or protecting keratinous substrates, as well as systems and kitscomprising the compositions, and methods of using the compositions.

BACKGROUND

Color cosmetic products have been long used to improve the appearance ofkeratinous substrates and, in particular, skin. While long-wear orextended wear makeup formulas are in use, these products still havelimitations, and a desire exists on behalf of some consumers to protectmore substantially the appearance of a user's makeup after it has beenapplied.

One approach to providing such protection is to use a so-called makeupsetting spray. These are products that sprayed as a fine mist onto thesurface (generally the face) onto which the makeup had previously beenapplied. These products generally include a polymer carried in a watersolution. It is presumed that the water evaporates leaving behindprotective polymer.

However, the present inventors have recognized that merely misting aproduct onto the face may not form a durable, continuous protective filmfor a user's previously applied makeup. Accordingly, the presentinventors have conceived of and surprisingly found that keratinoussubstrates having makeup formed thereon may be effectively treated withmakeup setting compositions that in the form of a mousse or foam. Thisprovides a pleasant user experience and is able to “set” the makeup thatwas previously applied.

SUMMARY

According to one aspect of the invention, a method of treatingkeratinous substrates, comprises applying a makeup setting compositionto a keratinous substrate having makeup formed thereon wherein themakeup setting composition comprises a gas phase dispersed in acondensed phase, and wherein the condensed phase comprises awater-soluble or water-dispersible film former.

In certain exemplary embodiments the method further comprises shearingthe makeup setting composition across the keratinous substrate to form alayer thereon.

In certain other exemplary embodiments, the shearing comprises manuallycontacting the makeup setting composition that has been applied to thekeratinous substrate (e.g., the skin) to spread the makeup settingcomposition that has been applied to the keratinous substrate acrosssaid keratinous substrate.

In certain other exemplary embodiments, the makeup setting compositionhas a Surface Tension Value of less than about 63 mN/m and wherepropellant is removed from the composition.

In certain other exemplary embodiments, the makeup setting compositionis produced by actuating a packaged makeup setting product that includesa mousse-forming composition such as one including the water-soluble orwater-dispersible film former, water, and a propellant.

In certain other exemplary embodiments, the mousse-forming compositioncomprises from about 0.5% by weight to about 50% by weight of thewater-soluble or water-dispersible film former.

According to another aspect of the invention, a mousse-formingcomposition is provided. The composition, includes propellant gas,water; and about 0.5% to about 50% by weight of a water-soluble orwater-dispersible polymer. The mousse-forming composition has a SurfaceTension Value of less than about 63 mN/m. The composition issubstantially free of surfactant.

According to another aspect of the invention, a kit comprises a makeupapplication product. The kit further comprises a packaged makeup settingproduct. The packaged makeup setting product is configured to provide aproduced makeup setting composition that comprises a gas phase dispersedin a condensed phase wherein the gas phase comprises the propellant, andwherein the condensed phase further comprises a water-soluble orwater-dispersible film former. The packaged makeup setting product mayinclude a mousse-forming composition that includes water and apropellant.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The accompanying drawings, which are incorporated herein and constitutepart of this specification, illustrate exemplary embodiments of theinvention, and, together with the general description given above andthe description provided herein, serve to explain features of theinvention.

FIG. 1 is an image depicting the foam structure of a makeup settingcomposition according to embodiments of the invention described herein;and

FIG. 2 is an image depicting the structure of a comparative composition.

It is to be understood that the foregoing and following descriptions areexemplary and explanatory only, and are not intended to be restrictiveof any subject matter claimed.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

All percentages of ingredients herein are listed on an actives basisunless specifically stated otherwise. Further, all percentages ofingredients are in percent by weight unless specifically statedotherwise.

As used herein, the expression “at least one” means one or more and thusincludes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, allnumbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditionsare to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term“about,” meaning within 15%, such as within 10%, of the indicatednumber. For example, about 10% means from 8.5% to 11.5%, such as between9% and 11%.

“Transfer resistance” as used herein refers to the quality exhibited bycompositions that are not readily removed by contact with anothermaterial, such as, for example, a glass, an item of clothing or theskin, for example, when eating or drinking. Transfer resistance may beevaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such. Forexample, transfer resistance of a composition may be evaluated usingtest methods described herein.

“Substituted” as used herein, means comprising at least one substituent.Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygenatoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as aminegroups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalky groups, oxyalkylenegroups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups,acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups,thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphategroups, siloxane groups,and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

“Substantially free” as it is used herein means that while it ispreferred that no amount of the specific component be present in thecomposition, it is possible to have very small amounts of it in thecompositions of the invention provided that these amounts do notmaterially affect at least one, preferably most, of the advantageousproperties of the conditioning compositions of the invention. In certainembodiments, substantially free means less than about 2% of theidentified ingredient, such as less than about 1%, such as less thanabout 0.5%, such as less than about 0.1% of the ingredient. The term“anhydrous” means substantially free of water.

Numerical ranges are inclusive of endpoints and meant to include allcombinations and sub-combinations. For example, from about 5%, 10% or15% to about 20%, 50% or 60% means about 5% to about 20%, about 5% toabout 50%, about 5% to about 60%, about 10% to about 20%, about 10% toabout 50%, about 10% to about 60%, about 15% to about 20%, about 15% toabout 50%, or about 15% to about 60%.

All concentrations in this specification are by weight unless otherwisespecifically stated differently.

“Keratinous materials” includes materials containing keratin such ashair, skin, eyebrows, lips and nails. According to certain notableembodiments, the keratinous substrate is skin, such as skin of the faceincluding around the cheeks, forehead, eyes, lips, or skin on otherparts of the body.

“Volatile”, as used herein, means having a flash point of less thanabout 100° C.

“Non-volatile”, as used herein, means having a flash point of greaterthan about 100° C.

“Actives basis” as used herein means considering only the particularcomponent of ingredient (e.g., in a composition) and ignoring otherchemically unrelated components that may be also be present in the sameraw material source of that particular component.

“Polymer” as used herein refers to a compound having molecules thatcomprise repeat units. In certain embodiments, polymer useful forembodiments described herein have a repeat unit comprising carbon andhydrogen, such as repeat units comprising carbon, hydrogen andoptionally oxygen or nitrogen.

The compositions and methods of the present invention can comprise,consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements andlimitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additionalor optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein orotherwise useful.

The present disclosure relates to methods treating keratinous substratesusing makeup setting compositions. The makeup setting compositions arein the form of a mousse or foam, i.e., they comprise a gas phasedispersed in a condensed phase.

By “mousse” or “foam” it is meant a system having two or more phaseswherein a gas is dispersed in a condensed phase (liquid, gelled liquid,and/or solid) phase to form a foam structure. In certain embodiments themousse or foam is a two phase system having a gas phase dispersed in aliquid or gelled liquid phase. The term mousse or foam is meant toexclude conventional sprays. By “conventional spray,” it is meant asystem in which tiny particles or droplets of liquid and/or solid thatare suspended in a gas phase.

According to certain embodiments the mousse or foam, after beingexpelled from a container onto a user's palm will appear as an opaquemass with some visible thickness. Allowed to remain undisturbed on theuser's palm, the opaque mass may retain its shape and appearance,without substantial visible change, for a period of time ranging fromabout two seconds to several hours or more. According to certainembodiments, the opaque mass may retain its shape and appearance for atleast as long as about 10 seconds. According to certain otherembodiments, the opaque mass may retain its shape and appearance for aperiod of time as least as long as one minute, such as least as long astwo minutes, such as at least as long as five minutes, such as at leastas long as ten minutes. During these periods of time a substantialportion of bubbles or cells of bubbles may remain (“remenant bubbles”).The remenant bubbles may be polydisperse or relatively monodisperse.

According to certain other embodiments, the mousse or foam may includeat least some fraction of remenant bubbles of dispersed gas that rangefrom about 0.25 mm to about 5 mm, such as from 0.5 mm to about 5 mm,such as from 1 mm to about 5 mm.

The size of remenant bubbles may be determined using, for example, aDFA100 Foam Analyzer (KRUSS GmbH Wissenschaftliche Laborgerate).Approximately five grams of product may be dispensed in the foamanalyzer's glass tube. An image can be acquired using the instrument'sbuilt-in camera one minute after dispensing the product. FIG. 1 depictsan image of a makeup setting composition consistent with embodiments ofthe invention described herein that was captured using this method,whereas FIG. 2 depicts an image captured of a conventional spray. Grayindicates bubbles of trapped gas whereas black indicates liquid orbubbles that are smaller in area than about 4838 um².

Packaged Makeup Setting Product

Embodiments of the present invention relate to packaged makeup settingproducts. By “packaged makeup setting product,” it is meant acomposition such as makeup setting composition that is contained withina primary package or container. This container may be made from any ofvarious materials or constructions and is designed to protect and/orrelease the contents within. According to a first embodiment (hereinafter, “high pressure release”), the packaged makeup setting product hasa container that is formed from a pressure resistant material such asmetal and is designed to maintain contents under high pressure. It mayinclude a pressure valve that, for example may be actuated by a user torelease under pressure the contents thereof. In this embodiment, thefoam or mousse may not exist inside the container, but may be createdupon expulsion from the container. In a second embodiment (herein after,“manual foam pump”) a non-aerosol packaging system creates a mousse orfoam by mixing liquid contents in a foaming chamber and discharges theresultant composition through a mesh to create the mousse or foam.

According to third embodiment (herein after, “pre-existing mousse”), thepackage is not configured to maintain the contents under high pressure,and the user can expel the contents by for example scooping, squeezingthe container, extruding, etc. In this embodiment, the foam or moussemay exist inside the container even prior to removal from the container.

Contents of Packaged Makeup Setting Product/Mousse-Forming Composition

According to the high pressure release embodiment described above, thepackaged makeup setting product generally has various mechanicalcontents such as a release valve or other optional mechanical packagingcontents (e.g., bag-on-valve) as well as flowable contents configured tobe released under pressure. In this embodiment, the flowable contents ofthe packaged makeup setting product flow from the container uponactuation by a user. A portion or the substantial entirety of these maybe released and/or incorporate into a resulting makeup settingcomposition to be applied to a keratinous substrate.

In this embodiment, the flowable contents of the packaged makeup settingproduct may include propellant described in more detail below as well asother flowable contents (e.g., a “concentrate”) that are mixed with thepropellant.

In the high pressure release embodiment, other flowable contents mayinclude any of various ingredients designed to be incorporated into themakeup setting composition to be applied to the keratinous substrate.These are described in detail in this specification. In anotherembodiment of the high pressure release embodiment, propellant isemployed to release the contents of the of the packaged makeup settingproduct, however the propellant is isolated from the contents using abag-on-valve configuration.

In certain embodiments of the high pressure release embodiment as wellas in the manual foam pump embodiment, the proportions and/or nature ofthe contents inside the container may be transformed upon exiting thecontainer. The transformation may include, for example, a mousse beingcreated after expulsion from the container through the mixing ofpropellant with the other flowable contents. The transformation mayinclude the creation of foam via manual pumping of contents in thepackage through mesh. The transformation may also include, for example,the loss of some propellant escaping and not be incorporated into themousse.

In the pre-existing mousse embodiment described above, the contents ofthe packaged makeup setting product may be nearly identical or identicalto the makeup setting composition, as no substantial transformation mayoccur in the contents before and after removal from the container.

The combination of optional propellant and other flowable contents(e.g., a concentrate for use in a high pressure release system) in thepackaged makeup setting product collectively form a mousse-formingcomposition that forms a mousse when expelled, produced or otherwiseremoved from the container.

According to certain embodiments of the invention the packaged makeupsetting product is configured to create a makeup setting compositionthat has good foaming properties. In particular, the packaged makeupsetting products of the present invention may include a mousse-formingcomposition that produces a slowly dissipating foam.

In order to assess the speed of foam dissipation, the following FoamCollapse Rate Test may be used. Foam collapse rate can be determinedusing, for example, a DFA100FSM Foam Analyzer (KRUSS GmbHWissenschaftliche Laborgerate). A product to be tested is dispensed intothe bottom of the instrument's glass tube, at which point acquisition ofthe foam's volume begins. The volume is recorded at two time points:when the foam has fully developed (i.e., when the foam reached maximumvolume), and when the foam has collapsed (i.e. when the foam reaches itsminimum volume after being dispensed). The Foam Collapse Rate iscalculated as that change in volume over the change in time.

According to certain embodiments of the invention, the Foam CollapseRate of the mousse-forming composition may be less than about than about0.7 ml/s such as less than about 0.3 ml/s, such as less than about 0.05ml/s, such as less than about 0.025 ml/s.

According to certain embodiments of the invention, the mousse-formingcomposition includes water, propellant, and water-soluble or dispersiblepolymer. The water-soluble or dispersible polymer may be present in themousse-forming composition in a concentration from about 0.5% to about50% by weight. Furthermore, the water-soluble or water-dispersiblepolymer may have a Surface Tension Value (as described herein) of lessthan about 63 mN/m. Furthermore, the mousse-forming composition may besubstantially free of surfactant.

Makeup Setting Composition

After the contents such as the mousse-forming composition are expelledfrom or otherwise removed from the packaged makeup setting product, thisproduces (in the case of high pressure release) or delivers theresulting makeup setting composition that is ready to be applied tokeratinous material having makeup formed thereon.

Water-Soluble or Water-Dispersible Film Former

The makeup setting compositions and mousse-forming compositions of thepresent invention generally include a water-soluble or water-dispersiblefilm former. One of ordinary skill in the art will readily appreciatethe term “film-former” or “film-forming agent” as used herein means amaterial such as a polymer or resin that leaves a film (e.g., acontinuous film) on the substrate to which it is applied, for example,after a solvent accompanying the film former has evaporated, absorbedinto and/or dissipated on or from the substrate. According to certainembodiments, the film former when tested according to the followingdrawdown test forms a conformal coating and/or can picked up or scrapedoff with a razorblade to be removed as a free standing film. Five to tengrams of material is placed on the center of a Leneta card stock (Blackand White Opacity card Chart 2812 available from BYK Additives andInstruments of Geretsried, Germany) and using a 3 mil Drawdown Birdbar(also from Byk), the material is spread across the sheet (8 in by 3 in)and allowed to dry overnight. Film-formers that are cosmetically ordermatologically acceptable may be utilized in the present invention. Asused herein, “cosmetically acceptable” or “dermatologically acceptable”is intended to mean that a composition is suitable for use in contactwith human tissues such as keratinous materials and mucous membraneswithout undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, and/or allergicresponse.

Additionally, one skilled in the art will appreciate that“water-soluble” refers to ingredients that completely solubilize indeionzed water, such as in a concentration of 1% by weight, and remainsolubilized at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for a year ormore or indefinitely. Similarly, “water-dispersible” refers toingredients that although they do not completely solubilize in deionizedwater as a water-soluble ingredient would, such ingredients do notvisibly phase separate at 1% by weight with the water and can in suchstate for extended time periods as described above. Water-dispersibleingredients may require small concentrations (e.g., one-tenth or less,such as one-twentieth or less of the concentration of ingredient to bedispersed) of dispersant to remain dispersed. Accordingly,“water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers” are generally polymersthat do not visibly phase separate under the conditions described abovewhen placed in deionized water at 1% by weight either alone or withsmall quantities of dispersant.

Suitable types of film-formers include anionic, non-ionic, cationic,amphoteric, or zwitterionic polymers.

Suitable anionic polymers can be a homo- or copolymer with acidgroup-containing monomer units derived from natural or syntheticsources, which, if necessary, can be polymerized with comonomers thatcontain no acid groups. Among the acid groups that can be considered aresulfonic acid, phosphoric acid and carboxylic acid groups, of which thecarboxylic acid groups are preferred. Suitable acid group-containingmonomers are, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonicacid, maleic acid, and maleic anhydride, maleic acid monoesters,especially the C-1 to C-7 alkyl monoesters of maleic acid, as well asaldehydocarboxylic acids or ketocarboxylic acids. Comonomers that arenot substituted with acid groups are, for example, acrylamide,methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl- anddialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate,vinylcaprolactone, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ester, vinyl alcohol,propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, amine-substituted vinyl monomerssuch as, for example, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate and monoalkylaminoalkylmethacrylate, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are for exampleC-1 to C-7 alkyl groups.

Anionic polymers can be partially or completely neutralized with a basicneutralizing agent. A preferred degree of neutralization is from about50% to about 100%, and from about 70% to about 100% is especiallypreferred. An organic or inorganic base can be used as the neutralizingagent. Particular examples of bases are amino alkanols such as, forexample, aminomethylpropanol (AMP), triethanolamine or monoethanolamine,and also ammonia, NaOH, and KOH among others.

Illustrative anionic polymers are acrylic polymers such asAMP-acrylates/allyl methacrylate available as FIXATE G-100 from Noveon.

Suitable nonionic film formers include homo- or copolymers that areformed from at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone,vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as, for example, vinyl acetate,vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide,alkyl- and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate,propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, where the alkyl groups in thesemonomers are for example C-1 to C-7 alkyl groups. Suitable homopolymersare, for example, those of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone orN-vinylformamide. Further suitable synthetic, film-forming, nonionic,hair-setting polymers are, for example, copolymerides fromvinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers from vinylpyrrolidone,vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides; polyvinyl alcoholsas well as polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol copolymers. Suitablenatural, film-forming polymers are, for example, cellulose derivatives,e.g., hydroxyalkylcellulose.

For example, the nonionic film former may be a polyvinylpyrrolidone,polyvinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers,polyvinyl alcohol, isobutylene/ethylmaleimide/hydroxyethylmaleimidecopolymer; copolymers from vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinylpropionate. In one notable embodiment, the nonionic film former is apolyvinylcaprolactam, such as is commercially available from BASF asLUVISKOL PLUS.

Suitable cationic film formers include cationic polymers, especiallythose with primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amino groups.Suitable cationic polymers preferably contain quaternary amino groups.Cationic polymers can be homo- or copolymers, where the quaternarynitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferablyas substituents on one or more of the monomers. The ammoniumgroup-containing monomers can be copolymerized with non-cationicmonomers. Suitable cationic monomer are unsaturated compounds that canundergo radical polymerization, which bear at least one cationic group,especially ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example,trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium,dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers withcyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium,imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g., alkylvinylimidazolium,alkylvinylpyridinium, or alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts. The alkyl groupsof these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such, as forexample, C-1 to C-7 alkyl groups.

For example, cationic film-forming polymers may include quaternizedcellulose ethers such as Polyquaternium 10 (hydroxyethylcellulosehydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride ether) Polyquaternium 4(hydroxyethylcellulose, dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride copolymer),quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/alkylaminoacrylate or methacrylatecopolymers such as dimethyl sulfate salt; methylvinylimidazoliumvinylpyrrolidone; N-methacryloyl ethyl-N,N′-dimethyl ammoniumgamma-N-methyl carboxy betaine butyl methacrylate copolymer, andmixtures thereof.

Suitable zwitterionic or amphoteric film former include polymers suchas: copolymers formed from alkylacrylamide, alkylaminoalkylmethacrylate, and two or more monomers from acrylic acid and methacrylicacid as well as, if necessary, their esters, especially copolymers fromoctylacrylamide, acrylic acid, butylaminoethyl methacrylate, methylmethacrylate and hydroxypropyl methacrylate (INCI designation:Octylacrylamide/Acrylate/Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer; e,g,AMPHOMER from Nouryon); copolymers, that are formed from at least one ofa first type of monomer that possesses quaternary amino groups and atleast one of a second type of monomer that possesses acid groups;copolymers from fatty alcohol acrylates, alkylamine oxide methacrylateand at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acidas well as, if necessary, acrylic acid esters and methacrylic acidesters, especially copolymers from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate,ethylamine oxide methacrylate and at least one monomer selected fromacrylic acid and methacrylic acid as well as, if necessary, theiresters; copolymers from methacryloyl ethyl betaine and at least onemonomer selected from methacrylic acid and methacrylic acid esters;copolymers from acrylic acid, methyl acrylate andmethacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (INCI designation:Polyquaternium-47); copolymers from acrylamidopropyltrimethylammoniumchloride and acrylates or copolymers from acrylamide,acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamidesulfonate and dimethylaminopropylamine (INCI designation:Polyquatemium-43); oligomers or polymers, producible from quaternarycrotonoylbetaines or quaternary crotonoylbetaine esters.

The concentration of the water-soluble or water-dispersible film-formerin the mousse-forming composition or in the makeup setting compositionmay be any suitable concentration for forming a continuous film on thekeratinous substrate. According to certain embodiments, theconcentration ranges from about 0.5% to about 50%. According to certainother embodiments, the concentration by weight ranges from about 0.2%,0.5%, 0.75, or 1% to about 1%, 3%, 5%, 10%, or 20%. Similarly, theconcentration by weight of the water-soluble or water-dispersiblefilm-former may fall within these ranges when incorporated into themousse-forming composition or makeup setting composition.

Water

Mousse-forming compositions used in packaged make up setting products aswell as makeup setting compositions useful in the present inventioninclude water to serve as a vehicle in which to dissolve or disperse thewater-dispersible or water-soluble film-former. The concentration ofwater in the mousse-forming composition may range, for example, fromabout 10% to about 99%, such as from about 15%, 25%, 40%, or 50% toabout 50%, 70%, 85%, 90%, 95% or 99% by weight. According to certainembodiments, the above concentrations are calculated relative to theentire mousse-forming composition except for propellant. In thisembodiment, mass/concentration of propellant is not considered in thecalculation. Similarly, the concentration by weight of the water mayfall within these above ranges when incorporated into the makeup settingcomposition.

Propellant

As discussed above, in certain embodiments, a propellant is included inthe mousse-forming composition in order to provide a source of gas toaid in expelling the contents of the packaged makeup setting productand/or to act as a source of gas to be incorporated into the makeupsetting composition. The propellant may partially or completelyincorporate into the makeup setting composition.

Propellant gas can be any liquefiable gas conventionally suitable forpressurized containers. Preferably the density of the propellant ormixture thereof is less than 1. Examples of materials that are suitablefor use as propellants are volatile liquefied propellant gases, such as,for example, dimethyl ether (DME) and/or linear or branched-chainhydrocarbons with two to five carbon atoms, such as, for example,ethane, propane, butane, isobutane, isobutene, pentane andtetrafluoropropene, used singly or in combination. According to certainother embodiments, such as when using bag-on-valve configuration,compressed air may be used as a propellant.

The concentration by weight of propellant in the mousse-formingcomposition may range from, for example, 1% to about 25%, such as fromabout 2%, 4% or 5% to about 10%, 15%, 20% or 30% by weight. Similarly,the concentration by weight of the propellant may fall within theseranges when incorporated into the makeup setting composition.

Other Components

Mousse-forming compositions and makeup setting compositions according tothe disclosure may optionally further include or exclude variousingredients useful for providing makeup setting performance and/or foamcreation, foam stability, and the like.

In certain embodiments, mousse-forming compositions and makeup settingcompositions of the present invention are substantially free of polymersthat are neither water-soluble nor water-dispersible. Polymers that areneither water-soluble nor water-dispersible generally do not meet thedefinition of water-soluble or water-dispersible as described above.Such polymers are, in certain embodiments soluble in non-polar or fattycompounds such as isododecane and/or in silicone compounds such aspolydimethylsiloxane.

The inventors have found that in certain embodiments, the presence ofpolymers that are neither water-soluble nor water-dispersible tend tocreate one or more problems such as reducing foam performance,disturbing/removing makeup during application, and/or causing the makeupto become less transfer resistant.

In certain embodiments, mousse-forming compositions and makeup settingcompositions may include surfactants or emulsifiers, such as in order toenhance foam. Suitable surfactants and emulsifiers include any ofvarious anionic, nonionic, cationic, or amphoteric surfactants, andmixtures thereof. According to certain embodiments, the term“surfactant” means a compound having at least one hydrophilic portionand at least one hydrophobic portion and wherein when it is added todeionized water in a concentration of 0.25% is capable of reducingsurface tension of water to less than about 60 mN/m, such as less thanabout 50 mN/m. In certain other embodiments, the definition ofsurfactant as used herein is meant to exclude polymeric compounds.

The term “cationic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising, as ionicor ionizable groups, only cationic groups. Non-limiting examples ofcationic surfactants that may be used include polyoxyalkylenatedprimary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammoniumsalts, and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made of tetraalkylammoniumhalides, such as chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium oralkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as from 14 to 20 carbon atoms. By way ofexample, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (behentrimonium chloride),distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride(cetrimonium chloride), or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride may bechosen.

In certain embodiments according to the disclosure, the compositions mayinclude one or more anionic surfactants. The term “anionic surfactant”means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, onlyanionic groups. These anionic groups may optionally be chosen from thegroups CO₂H, CO₂ ⁻, SO₃H, SO₃ ⁻, OSO₃H, OSO₃ ⁻O₂PO₂H, O₂PO₂H and O₂PO₂².

Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include alkyl sulfates,alkyl ether sulfates, acyl isethionates, acyl glycinates, acyl taurates,acyl amino acids, acyl sarcosinates, sulfosuccinates, sulfonates, and amixture thereof, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups of all thesecompounds comprise from 6 to 24 carbon atoms. In some cases, anionicsulfate surfactants may be excluded from the one or more anionicsurfactants. In such cases, the one or more anionic surfactants may beselected from the group consisting of acyl isethionates, acylglycinates, acyl taurates, acyl amino acids, acyl sarcosinates,sulfosuccinates, sulfonates, and mixtures thereof, wherein the alkyl andacyl groups of all these compounds comprise from 6 to 24 carbon atoms.

Useful non-ionic surfactant(s) can be, for example, selected fromalcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, thesecompounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having atleast one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbonatoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propyleneoxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerolgroups to range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.Non-limiting mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxideand/or of propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or ofpropylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amidescomprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide;polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters ofsorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oilsfrom plant origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters ofpolyethylene glycol; polyethoxylated fatty acid mono or diesters ofglycerol (C₆-C₂₄)alkylpolyglycosides; N—(C₆-C₂₄)alkylglucaminederivatives, amine oxides such as (C₁₀-C₁₄)alkylamine oxides orN—(C₁₀-C₁₄)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; and a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of amphoteric surfactants useful in thecompositions include, for example, optionally quaternized secondary ortertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is alinear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, saidamine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance acarboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines,sulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines,(C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines, such as cocamido-propylbetaine,and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylsulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.For example, mention may be made of compounds classified under the INCInames sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodiumcaproamphoacetate and sodium capryloamphoacetate.

According to certain embodiments, the concentration of surfactants inthe mousse-forming compositions and/or makeup setting compositionsuseful in the present invention may be selected so as not to interferewith or detract from the foaming of the product and/or the performance(e.g., make up disruption during application or subsequent makeuptransfer resistance). If present, the total amount of the one or moresurfactants can range from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight, relativeto the total weight of the composition, including all ranges andsubranges therebetween. In certain embodiments, such as, for example,when the surface tension of the mousse-forming composition at the liquidair interface (using methods described below) is less than about 63mN/m, the packaged makeup setting product and/or the makeup settingcomposition is substantially free of surfactants and emulsifiers.

Mousse-forming compositions and makeup setting compositions useful inembodiments provided herein may optionally include other componentssuitable for use in cosmetic compositions. Such components may include,but are not limited to, colorants such as dyes/pigments, thickeningagents, humectants and moisturizing agents, fatty substances, fillers,antioxidants, sequestrants, fragrances, buffers, dispersants, plantextracts, volatile or non-volatile solvents, preserving agents,sunscreen agents, vitamins, pH adjusting agents. In certain embodiments,the makeup setting products and makeup setting compositions aresubstantially free of fatty substances, such as oils and waxes. Oneskilled in the art will recognize that “fatty substances” generallyrefer to water-incompatible and/or hydrophobic substances that don'tmeet the definition herein of a surfactant. “Oil” means any non-aqueousmedium which is liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmosphericpressure (760 mm Hg). A “wax” refers to lipophilic fatty compounds thatis solid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and changes from the solid tothe liquid state reversibly, having a melting temperature of more than30° C. and, for example, more than 45° C., which can be as high as 150°C., a hardness of more than 0.5 MPa at ambient temperature, and ananisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state.

Optional other components may be present in an amount ranging from about0.0001% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecompositions.

Mousse-forming compositions and makeup setting compositions usefulaccording to the present invention may have a pH in a range from about3.5 to about. 9.5 such as from about 4 to about 8.

Mousse-forming compositions and makeup setting compositions usefulaccording to the present invention, according to certain embodimentshave a surface tension when measured at the air liquid interface at atime period of five minutes (Surface Tension Value) that is less thanabout of less than about 63 mN/m, wherein the surface tension is atabout five minutes from the time of dispensing and with propellantremoved from the composition. According to other embodiments the SurfaceTension Value is less than about 60 mN/m, such as less than about 44mN/m, such as less than about 42 mN/m.

Surface tension measurements to calculate Surface Tension Value may beperformed, for example, using Pendant Drop Method at room temperaturewith an Attension Theta Optical Tensiometer (Biolin Scientific). Thetensiometer can be equipped with an Automatic XYZ Sample Stage (T330)and an Automatic Single Liquid Dispenser (C201). The test is performedaccording to the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Propellantshould be allowed to volatilize from the test samples so as not tointerfere with the reading. The instrument is calibrated using a metalball (NIST No.821/263669-00) and the samples introduced using a 1 mLglass syringe. The syringe is rinsed with ethanol and deionized (DI)water prior to each sample. Before starting the measurements anydroplets on the needle are wiped off using Kimwipes™ disposable wipes.Standardization tests with DI water (70-72 mN/m surface tension) areperformed before each sample. Each composition is tested in triplicateby analyzing a 54 drop automatically dispensed at a rate of 2 μL/s. Datais collected at a rate of 6.0 FPS (frames per second) and analyzed usingOne Attension Software. The average and standard deviation for eachsample is then calculated using the moving averages. Surface TensionValue (mN/m) is reported as the reading at 5 minutes.

Methods of Making and Using

The packaged makeup setting product is prepared by combining theingredients, including the water and water-soluble or water-dispersiblefilm-former, in a vessel with optional heat, while mixing until allsolids are dissolved or dispersed, providing an aqueous phase. Anoptional oil phase, if used, can be prepared and combined with theaqueous phase such as to form an emulsion. Gelling agents can beincluded to gel one or more of the phases, if appropriate. The resultingcompositions may be filled into a dispensing can or other container,delimiting at least one compartment which comprises the compositionoptionally with a suitable amount of propellant either mixed with thecomposition or into a separate bag (bag-on-valve embodiment) fordischarge of the contents, optionally along with propellant. Thecontainer may be used in combination with an applicator comprising atleast one application component configured in order to apply thecomposition to keratinous substances.

The water-soluble or dispersible materials may be mixed with water toform a “concentrate”. This concentrate, in an appropriate amount, may beplaced into an aerosol container. The container may then be then fittedwith a valve, subjected to a vacuum to rid the container of air andsealed with the valve “crimped” in place. Propellant fluid and thepropellant may then be filled into the container through the valve toprovide the mousse-forming composition.

In other embodiments, the ingredients may be combined and sheared underhigh speed mixing without propellant, in order to create a mousse thatis shelf-stable under atmospheric pressure. This stable mousse may bepackaged as a ready to use mousse or foam.

In another embodiment (such as in the manual foam pump embodiment) thecontainer is equipped with a hand pump apparatus so that the contents inthe package move through mesh in order to aerate the contents and form afoam or mousse at an exit nozzle.

Systems and Kits

Embodiments of the present disclosure further provide systems and kitsincluding any of the packaged makeup setting described herein. Invarious embodiments, a kit includes a makeup application product. Themakeup application product is a packaged product that includes makeup tobe applied to a keratinous substrate such as the skin. The makeupapplication product may be selected from one or more of productsincluding colorants. Examples any of various products in liquid orpowder form, include primer, bronzer, foundation, concealer,highlighter, blush, eyeshadow, eyeliner, mascara, lipstick, lip liner,lip gloss, and the like, and combinations thereof.

The kit further includes a packaged makeup setting product that includeswater and a propellant. In certain embodiments the water and apropellant are mixed together along with other ingredients such aswater-soluble or water-dispersible film-formers to form a mouse-formingcomposition within a container of the packaged makeup setting product.The packaged makeup setting product is configured to provide a producedmakeup setting composition that comprises a gas phase dispersed in acondensed phase, wherein the gas phase comprises the propellant, andwherein the condensed phase further comprises a water-soluble orwater-dispersible film former. The makeup setting composition may be“produced” by actuating for example a nozzle or pump so that the makeupsetting composition forms a mousse in situ, or it may be produced bysqueezing, extruding or otherwise removing a pre-formed mousse.

Methods of Using Make Up Setting Compositions

Methods according to the disclosure comprise treating, caring for, orconditioning keratin substrates with the compositions described herein.The methods generally comprise applying any of the disclosed makeupsetting compositions to the keratinous substrates, e.g. to the skin. Incertain embodiments, the keratinous substrate is the skin of the faceincluding around the neck, cheeks, forehead, eyes, lips, and the like.In other embodiments, the keratinous substrate is skin around otherareas of the body such as legs, arms, and the like.

According to certain embodiments, the method includes shearing themakeup setting composition across the keratinous substrate to form alayer thereon. The shearing may include manually contacting the makeupsetting composition that has been applied to the keratinous substrate tospread the makeup setting composition that has been applied to thekeratinous substrate across said keratinous substrate. The shearing maybe performed by spreading the mousse across the substrate using thefingers or an applicator. The applicator may be attached to the packagedmakeup setting product or it may be a stand-alone device designed tominimize pressure applied to the substrate.

According to certain embodiments the method includes releasing amousse-forming composition from the packaged makeup setting product toform a makeup setting composition. The makeup setting composition isthen applied to the keratinous substrate as described above.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatoryin nature only. In the Examples, amounts are expressed in percentage byweight (wt %) of active materials.

Example I—Foam Performance, Makeup Removal During Application and MakeupNon Transference

Six samples were prepared by combining water, isobutene propellant, andfor certain examples a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer or awater-insoluble polymer. The ingredients and concentrations are shown inTable 1.

TABLE 1 Water-soluble or Water-dispersible Non water-soluble/ Ref. WaterIsobutane polymer dispersible polymer C1 94% 6% — — C2 94% 6% — 5%Trimethylsiloxysilicate¹ C3 94% 6% — 5% Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer² E1 89% 6% 5% Octylacrylamide/— acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate³ E2 89% 6% 5%AMP-acrylates/allyl — methacrylate⁴ E3 89% 6% 5% polyvinylcaprolactam⁵¹SILSOFT 74 from Momentive ²DOWSIL FA 4002 from Dow Chemical ³AMPHOMERLV-71 from Nouryon ⁴FIXATE G-100PR from Lubrizol ⁵LUVISOL PLUS from BASF

Concentrate compositions were prepared by adding 2.5% active polymer bymass in deionized water. Specifically, water was charged to a vessel andmixed on a Silverson homogenizer operating at 2000 rpm, and polymer wasadded slowly until fully incorporated. For reference E1, aminomethylpropanol was added at a 1:5 ratio to the polymer to neutralize thesolution and incorporate the polymer.

Then, 47 mL of each of the prepared concentrates above were filled into100 mL Valspar 32S39MD Dot 2Q aluminum cans. A P10399 mousse valve fromPrecision Valve Corporation was cramped onto the opening of the can tocreate a seal. Three (3) g of propellant (isobutane) was then injectedinto the can, making the ratio of propellant to concentrate 6:94. Theproduct was then placed in a water bath at 55° C. for 1 hour to ensureno leakage of propellant. The product was then removed from the bath andkept at room temperature undisturbed overnight. The foam was dispensedfrom the product using a Mars actuator from Precision Valve Corporation.

The test compositions were evaluated using three separate testingprotocols.

The first test for Foam Quality was performed by dispensingapproximately 1 mL of product onto a weigh tray, inspecting visually,and ranking. “High” indicates a foam that develops significant volumeafter being dispensed, low-to-no breakage, and good stiffness. Ingeneral, High foams will be stable beyond 10 minutes of being dispensed.“Moderate” indicates a foam that developed some volume, some breakage,and/or apparent pooling of formula around the foam. In general, Moderatefoams will collapse within 10 minutes of being dispensed. “Low”indicates a foam that showed low-to-no foam development and quickpooling of formula. In general, Low foams will collapse within 1 min ofbeing dispensed.

The second test, for Makeup Removal During Application was performed byplacing a tape template on the skin of the forearm, leavingapproximately a 1.5×1.5 mm square of skin bare. A liquid foundation(L′OREALTrue Match) was applied over the template. The foundation wasallowed to dry for 10 minutes. Then, the test material was applied tothe surface of the foundation using a finger, and the finger is assessedvisual after application. “High” indicates significant transfer ofmakeup onto the finger. “Moderate” indicates some transfer of makeuponto the finger. “Low,” the most desirable category, indicateslittle-to-no transfer of makeup onto the finger.

The third test, for Makeup Transfer Resistance Test was performed bypreparing an in-vivo tape template and liquid foundation was applied anddried on the template for 10 minutes, as described above. The testcomposition was applied onto the foundation and allowed to dry for 5minutes The template was then removed, leaving a 1.5 mm×1.5 mm square offoundation exposed to the test composition. A finger was then draggedonce across the surface of the substrate with moderate pressure, and thedrag pattern onto the skin was visually inspected and ranked 1-9. A “1,”the most-desirable rating, indicates no drag pattern was observed. 2-4indicate mild drag patterns. 5-7 indicate moderate drag patterns. 8-9indicates very significant drag patterns.

The results are shown below.

Makeup Removal During Makeup Transfer Ref. Foam Quality ApplicationResistance C1 LOW LOW 6 C2 LOW MED 3 C3 LOW HIGH 3 E1 HIGH LOW 1 E2 HIGHLOW 2 E3 MEDIUM LOW 2

The results indicate that samples with water-soluble or dispersiblepolymer (E1, E2 and E3) perform well according to all three tests.Samples where water-soluble or dispersible polymer (C1, C2 and C3) isreplaced with water or polymers that are notwater-soluble/water-dispersible did not have desirable performance.

Example II—Surface Tension and Foam Collapse Rate

Twelve test compositions (B1-B12) or “concentrates” were prepared,eleven of which each had 2.5% by weight of various film-forming polymersand one had only water. Example B11 additionally included 0.52%aminomethylpropanol in order to neutralize the particular polymer. Thevarious concentrates were evaluated for Surface Tension Value. Thevarious concentrates were also filled into cans with propellant asdescribed above and evaluated for Foam Collapse Rate.

Surface tension measurements were performed using Pendant Drop methoddescribed in this specification. Surface Tension Value. Foam collapserate was performed using the Foam Collapse Rate Test as described inthis specification. These results are shown in Table 2, below.

TABLE 2 Foam Surface Collapse Tension Rate Reference Polymer (mN/m)(mL/s) B1 None 71.5 Not Tested B2 POLYVINYLPYRROLLIDONE 65.5 1.024 B3POLYURETHANE-35 63.2 0.707 B4 POLYESTER-5 59.9 0.229 B5POLYVINYLCAPROLACTAM 56.6 0.243 B6 ACACIA SENEGAL GUM 52.5 0.191 B7VP/VA COPOLYMER 49.1 0.843 B8 ACRYLATES COPOLYMER 46.9 0.069 B9POLYVINYL ALCOHOL 44.2 0.011 B10 VP/ACRYLATES/LAURYL 41.1 0.018METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER B11 Octylacrylamide/acrylates/ 34.6 0.024butylaminoethyl methacrylate³ B12 AMP-ACRYLATES/ALLYL 34.3 0.009METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER

The results above indicate that compositions with high surface tensionsat the air liquid interface create foams that collapse fast. It istherefore desirable for compositions useful in the present invention tohave Surface Tension Values to be less than about 63 mN/m, such as lessthan about 60 mN/m, such as less than about 44 mN/m, such as less thanabout 42 mN/m. It is also desirable, according to certain embodiments,for compositions useful in the present invention to have foam collapserates that are less than about 0.7 ml/s such as less than about 0.3ml/s, such as less than about 0.05 ml/s, such as less than about 0.025ml/s, such as between about 0.005 ml/s and about 0.025 ml/s.

It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that variousmodifications and variations can be made in the compositions and methodsaccording to the disclosure without departing from the spirit or scopeof the disclosure. Thus, it is intended that the disclosure cover suchmodifications and variations and their equivalents.

1. A method of treating keratinous substrates, comprising: applying amakeup setting composition to a keratinous substrate having makeupformed thereon wherein the makeup setting composition comprises a gasphase dispersed in a condensed phase, and wherein the condensed phasecomprises a water-soluble or water-dispersible film former.
 2. Themethod of claim 1 further comprising shearing the makeup settingcomposition across the keratinous substrate to form a layer thereon. 3.The method of claim 2 wherein the shearing comprises manually contactingthe makeup setting composition that has been applied to the keratinoussubstrate to spread the makeup setting composition that has been appliedto the keratinous substrate across said keratinous substrate.
 4. Themethod of claim 1, wherein the keratinous substrate is a user's skin. 5.The method of claim 1, wherein the makeup setting composition isproduced by actuating a packaged makeup setting product that includes amousse-forming composition.
 6. The method of claim 5, wherein themousse-forming composition comprises the water-soluble orwater-dispersible film former, water, and a propellant.
 7. The method ofclaim 5, wherein the mousse-forming composition has a Surface TensionValue of less than about 63 mN/m.
 8. The method of claim 5, wherein themousse-forming composition has a Surface Tension Value of less thanabout 60 mN/m.
 9. The method of claim 5, wherein the mousse-formingcomposition has a Surface Tension Value of less than about 44 mN/m. 10.The method of claim 6 wherein the mousse-forming composition comprisesfrom about 0.5% by weight to about 50% by weight of the water-soluble orwater-dispersible film former.
 11. The method of claim 6, wherein themousse-forming composition comprises from about 40% to about 99% byweight of water.
 12. The method of claim 6, wherein the mousse-formingcomposition is substantially free of film-formers that are neitherwater-soluble nor water-dispersible.
 13. A kit comprising: a makeupapplication product; and; a packaged makeup setting product thatcomprises water and a propellant, wherein the packaged makeup settingproduct is configured to provide a produced makeup setting compositionthat comprises a gas phase dispersed in a condensed phase, wherein thegas phase comprises the propellant, and wherein the condensed phasefurther comprises a water-soluble or water-dispersible film former. 14.The kit of claim 13, wherein makeup application product is selected fromprimer, bronzer, foundation, concealer, highlighter, blush, eyeshadow,eyeliner, mascara, lipstick, lip liner, lip gloss, and combinationsthereof.
 15. A mousse-forming composition, comprising: propellant gas;water; and about 0.5% to about 50% by weight of a water-soluble orwater-dispersible polymer, wherein the water-soluble orwater-dispersible polymer, wherein the mousse-forming composition has aSurface Tension Value of less than about 63 mN/m; and wherein thecomposition is substantially free of surfactant.
 16. The mousse-formingcomposition of claim 15, wherein the mousse-forming composition has aSurface Tension Value of less than about 60 mN/m.
 17. The mousse-formingcomposition of claim 15, comprising less than about 1% by weight ofsurfactant.
 18. The mousse-forming composition of claim 15, wherein thecomposition comprises less than about 0.5% by weight of surfactant. 19.The mousse-forming composition of claim 15, wherein the water is presentin a concentration by weight from about 40% to about 99% by weight inthe composition, exclusive of propellant.
 20. The mousse-formingcomposition of claim 15, wherein the mousse-forming composition has aFoam Collapse Rate of less than about 0.7 ml/s.